1. Turn Off and Unplug:
- Make sure your system is turned off and unplugged.
2. Dust the Surfaces:
- Use a soft, dry cloth to wipe away dust.
- For hard-to-reach places, use a soft brush or a can of compressed air.
3. Wipe Down the Exterior:
- We do not recommend using any solvents
- If cleaning off stains or build-up is necessary, we recommend doing so with a very small amount of mild cleaning solution applied only to the affected area, followed by quickly wiping the area dry completely.
- Any scoured pads or objects like a 'magic eraser' too easily run the risk of removing sealers and top coats of the painted finish that can leave a clearly visible change in the uniformity of the paint/finish
4. Clean the Speaker Grills:
- The speaker grills can be gently cleaned with a vacuum, preferably using a soft bush attachment.
- A lint roller can also be used.
5. Clean Buttons and Knobs:
- A dry cloth is recommend for cleaning any knobs, buttons or other surfaces
- Be careful not to let water get into any gaps.
6. Clean Ports and Connections:
- Use compressed air to blow out dust from ports and connections.
7. Let Everything Dry:
- Make sure everything is completely dry before plugging back in and turning on.
8. Regular Cleaning:
- Dust your system regularly to keep it in good shape.
By following these steps, you can keep your Audioengine system clean and working well.
- The process for replacing a volume encoder begins with pulling the volume knob straight back from the encoder shaft
- Make sure the rubber insert stays with the volume knob -
- The volume encoder shaft should look like so before proceeding -
- Using a thin-walled 10mm socket, remove the lock nut fastening the encoder to the front of the speaker cabinet -
- Once you have removed the amp backplate on the back of the active speaker, make sure to remove the encoder wiring terminal clip from the amp circuit board. You can then fully uninstall the encoder assembly by pulling back the encoder shaft from the inside -
- Finally, the IR receiver can be removed by using a long-necked Phillips PH1 screw driver to remove the 2 screws fastening the IR receiver on the inside of the cabinet -
After fully removing the faulty encoder, the replacement can be installed following these steps in reverse order before finally connecting the wiring clip to the amp circuit board and fastening the amp backplate back onto the active speaker.
The process can be a bit cramped if you wish to do as little disassembly as possible, or a bit easier if you are comfortable moving parts to give yourself more workspace. The sound damping insulation normally overlaps at the bottom of the active cabinet. This can be peeled back similar to the reference picture attached. The crossover is mounted underneath this insulation (If process being done on an HD6) and is perhaps the most obtrusive part when replacing a volume encoder. This has two Philips head screws mounting it to the base of the cabinet along with an adhesive pad to reduce noise vibration. It is possible to remove the two screws and lift the adhered crossover up from the base of the cabinet momentarily to get better access to the IR receiver and volume knob assemblies at the front. If you'd rather not risk damaging anything, the IR receiver can still be unscrewed from the inside of the cabinet with a long-necked Phillips PH1 driver. The volume knob is loosened from the outside of the cabinet with a thin-walled 10mm socket found by pulling the volume knob straight back from the encoder shaft. Ample lighting will also make this work easier
The size of each speaker is 10.75"Hx 7"W x 9"D
Absolutely! You can connect any Audioengine speaker with an analog output to any Sonos product that has the Line-In feature. You can also connect any Audioengine passive speakers into an existing Sonos system using the Sonos Amp.
Absolutely! To do so:
- Open the Alexa App on your smartphone or tablet (Apple link | Google Play Link)
- Tap the “Devices” icon and select the Echo/Alexa device you want to connect to speakers
- Select “Bluetooth Devices”
- Select “Pair New Device”
- Find your Audioengine wireless speaker on the list of available Bluetooth devices, and select it
Yes! We incorporate all the relevant functions and features from Bluetooth 5.0 that apply to our products! These features include; extended range, low latency (so that video and audio sync properly), as well as higher level aptX-HD, aptX, and AAC codecs (with the exception of our 512 portable speaker which supports SBC only). Keep in mind that the capability of the source is what controls the Bluetooth experience.
All turntables require a phono preamp stage before connecting to Audioengine speakers. Many turntables have this built-in , while others do not and would require an external phono preamp. Check the turntable manufacturer’s website or user manual. Some turntables may even include Bluetooth, in which case you can pair and connect them to the speakers wirelessly!
Yep, an AC wall outlet near the A5+ Wireless is all you need to power the W3 or D2 wireless Receiver.
Yes they do! They are equipped with a power-saving circuit that turns off the speaker's final stage amp. This idle mode activates right after you stop playing music. Due to this power-saving function, it's perfectly fine for the speakers to stay on all the time!
Audioengine speakers can be easily connected to your TV set as long as there are analog outputs available. Any of our speakers will provide a greatly enhanced TV audio experience with a wider soundstage and better imaging than most sound bars.
All you would need to do is connect the variable output of the A5+ Wireless into the input of your sub using RCA cables.
Yes. Our A5+ Wireless Speakers feature two analog inputs. Simply connect the Airport Express to one input and the variable output from your TV into the other. Both inputs are "open" or active, so you can leave two audio sources plugged in at the same time with no need to flip any switches.